Tarett Drop Link (pr), Front, 996/997/986/987/ 996GT3/981/991

Tarett Drop Link (pr), Front, 996/997/986/987/ 996GT3/981/991

Price: $275.00
  • Item #: tar-996FDLNK
  • Manufacturer: Tarett
* Marked fields are required.
Qty: *

pgrade your stock front swaybar with this simple bolt in replacement for the factory drop links.

Left & right hand threaded rodends allow for simple length adjustment to eliminate swaybar preload.

Correctly sized, precision, Teflon-lined rod-ends for smooth and quiet operation, long life, and high reliability. No wear and rattling problems, like those seen with other designs, due to undersized or low quality rod ends.

Eliminates the factory compliant plastic drop link bushings that deflect under loading and quickly wear out.

High misalignment, stainless steel spacers allow for superior bind free operation and corrosion resistance.

Precisely connects the stock or adjustable swaybar to the front strut assembly for improved feedback and swaybar response.

Overall length is adjustable to accommodate either stock or adjustable swaybar requirements.

Tarett front drop links are the aftermarket links that have been exclusively certified for SPB & 996 Spec racing.

Now available, rod end boots to seal out dirt and moisture. Requires 4 each of L-Boots.

Note for C4 cars: Due to front axle restrictions, the drop links may not reach the stiffest settings on an adjustable front swaybar.

General Drop Link Setup Instructions

Setting Drop Link Length

Optimal drop link length will vary by ride height, sway bars used, and stiffness setting. The basic guideline is to try to get the swaybar arms relatively parallel to the ground when the suspension is loaded. It's in no way critical, and small variations are not a problem. Try to avoid excessive swaybar lever arm angles if they can be corrected with a simple adjustment. You should be able to establish a single length that works ok for a ll the possible adjustment settings. When set correctly, the swaybar may lightly contact the LCA with the suspension hanging. It will move away as the suspension gets loaded. On C4 cars, be make sure there is adequate clearance between the swaybar and a xle with the suspension fully loaded.

Setting Swaybar Stiffness

Settings will vary as well, depending on multiple factors. As an initial setup, I recommend setting the front in the middle and the rear in one of the softer settings. Tune with the rear ba r because it's much easier to access. Then adjust front and rear together to increase or decrease overall stiffness as desired. If you are running stock suspension, you may want to bump up the initial overall swaybar stiffness to help control body roll a nd improve response. Always be careful after changing settings and make small changes , as you could be caught off guard with an oversteering situation.

Setting Drop Link Preload and Rod End Phasing

With the car on flat ground, you can adjust out preload by adjusting the drop link length on one side. The front wheels need to be pointing straight ahead. With the locking nuts loose, rotate the link in either direction to make the drop link shorter or longer. If you rotate the wrong direction, the preload will increases, and it will get harder to rotate the link. Rotating the correct direction will make it easier to turn. At the point of no preload, you will feel the link be completely loose.

Next step is to phase the rod ends so they don't bind. You ca n do this with the car off the ground, and the wheels off for better access. Be careful not to rotate the links much and throw off your preload. The back is easy, requiring that the rod ends be relatively parallel to each other. The front requires much more attention. With the wheels pointing straight ahead, rotate both rod ends the same direction completely, as far as they will go. Tighten the loose locking nut. Rotate the steering to full lock in both directions, checking for any binding by rotating the complete link (with rod ends) in either direction. The rod ends should still have some room to allow for some rotation before they are maxed out. If they bind in one lock position, and not the other, you may need to do some fine tuning on the phase angle between the rod ends so there is no binding in either lock position. Now tighten the locking nuts on each link.

Check for Binding or Contact

With all the different swaybars on the market, there is no one setup configuration that works for all cases . The link to swaybar connection may need to be on the inner side of the bar for some brands, and on the outer for others. Rotate the steering from lock to lock and check to make sure the rod ends are not binding and the links are not making any contact with the wheel carrier or the strut. Any contact or binding will cause unwanted noise and possible damage to the links. Make whatever adjustments that are necessary. The C4 swaybars and struts have more possible variations and will take more time to setup properly.

Reviews (0) Write a Review
No Reviews. Write a Review